| Foods that are Dangerous to Dogs |
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| Alcoholic Beverages: Can cause intoxication, coma, and death. |
| Baby Food: Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. (Please see onion below.) Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts. |
| Bones from Fish, Poultry, or Other Meat Sources: Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system. |
| Cat Food: Generally too high in protein and fats. |
| Chocolate, Coffee, Tea, and Other Caffeine: Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems. |
| Citrus Oil Extracts: Can cause vomiting. |
| Fat Trimmings: Can cause pancreatitis. |
| Grapes and Raisins: Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys. There have been no problems associated with grape seed extract. |
| Hops: Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death. |
| Human Vitamin Supplements Containing Iron: Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys. |
| Large Amounts of Liver: Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones. |
| Macadamia Nuts: Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle. |
| Marijuana: Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate. |
| Milk and Other Dairy Products: Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk products are available for pets. |
| Moldy or Spoiled Food, Garbage: Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs. |
| Mushrooms: Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death. |
| Onions and Garlic (raw, cooked, or powder): Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions. |
| Persimmons Seeds: can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis. |
| Pits from Peaches and Plums: Can cause obstruction of the digestive tract. |
| Potato, Rhubarb, and Tomato Leaves; Potato and Tomato Stems: Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems. This is more of a problem in livestock. |
| Raw Eggs: Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella. |
| Raw Fish: Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly. |
| Salt: If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances. |
| Sugary Foods: Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus. |
| Table Scraps (in large amounts): Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed. |
| Tobacco: Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death. |
| Yeast Dough: Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines. |
| Plants that are toxic to Dogs |
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| Pet First Aid |
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| Pet owners are sometimes faced with emergency situations involving their pets without the presence or guidance of their veterinarian. Animals can get sick or require first aid any place at any time. If you as a pet owner have the knowledge of basic pet first aid, then the care, treatment and prognosis for your pet will improve significantly. The following is a list of guidelines you can use when presented with an injured or ill pet. Please remember that this is to be used as a guide and is not a substitute for visiting your veterinarian! |
| If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, contact a veterinarian immediately! Do not try to induce vomiting until you speak with a veterinarian, and be prepared to describe as best as you can the suspected poisonous material. |
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| Abrasions: |
| When the top layers of skin have been abraded and tissue under the skin is not disturbed we might refer to this injury as a skin abrasion. Most superficial scrapes or wounds no larger than an inch or two in area can be treated with first aid. Larger or deeper abrasions require professional medical attention. To treat minor abrasions be sure your hands are clean then gently clip the fur away from the wound. Fur in a healing wound can lead to contamination and delayed healing. Use warm water to flush the wound to remove dirt and debris from the area. Apply an antibiotic cream such as neosporin or bacitracin 3 or 4 times a day. Generally, these two medications can be obtained without a prescription. Distract the pet for a few minutes so avoid allowing the pet to lick the medication off. These two medications in the amount applied to an abrasion are relatively safe even if the pet licks a tiny amount from the abrasion. If the wound spreads or produces pus or the pet is uncomfortable, seek veterinary attention immediately. |
| Artificial respiration or CPR: |
| This may be done in extreme situations and attempts to use artificial respiration in pets can cause injury to the subject if done incorrectly. First, look deep in the mouth and if possible pull the tongue forward. Look for any object in the back of the throat such as kibbled food, a chew toy, bone, or stick. Remove any object and begin CPR. If the pet is not breathing, lay it down on its right side. Check for a heartbeat by extending the left front leg forward to expose the chest area just behind shoulder. Place your ear against the chest wall and listen for a heartbeat or place your fingertips against the chest near to sternum (front of the chest). If there is no heartbeat, you can start chest compressions as well, see “CPR“. To inflate the lungs, extend the neck as if the pet is stretching the jaw far forward. Now there should be a straight airway from the nose and mouth back into the lungs. Close the pet's mouth and place your mouth around the end of the muzzle covering the nose and blow through the pet's nose. You should be able to see the chest expand. Large breeds may need some force to expand the lungs but small breeds of dogs and cats may require very little force of breath to expand the chest. Do not over inflate the lungs! If you see the chest rising you are doing well. Breath into the pet, view the chest rise, remove your mouth to allow escape of air, then repeat after the pet exhales. Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. |
| Bite wounds: |
| Always use caution when approaching or handling an animal that is injured by bite wounds or trauma. If they are in pain they may bite out of reflexive self-protection when at no other time would they bite anyone. Use a muzzle if needed. Flush the wound well with warm water and try to clip fur from any wounds. Topical bacitracin can be applied to a skin break. It is important to note that bite wounds are a combination of penetrating and crushing damage. A small hole in the skin can mask severe tearing of tissues and bleeding hidden beneath the skin. Gently wrap any skin tears with bandaging material and apply direct pressure to a site that displays active bleeding. Bite wounds usually become infected, so it is very important to have a veterinarian assess any bite wound because even the most innocent bite wound has potential to become seriously infected. Oral antibiotics may be needed... not to mention surgery to repair deeper damage inflicted beneath the skin. First aid for bite wounds should be considered only as a first response; evaluation by a veterinarian is very important for proper assessment and recovery. |
| Bloat: |
| Stomach expansion due to a buildup of gas or froth which cannot be expelled by belching or passage along the intestinal tract will lead to bloat. Also called gastric dilatation, bloat can occur rapidly and be fatal within hours of onset. Veterinarians always consider a bloat case as a true emergency that demands immediate attention for the best chance of a good outcome for the patient. Death is usually a result of circulatory failure and shock. The causes of bloat are not yet well understood but it seems to occur most in large breeds of dogs: it is seldom seen in cats. If you notice your dog gagging, trying unsuccessfully to vomit, displaying strings of saliva hanging from the mouth and shows signs of a distended abdomen... call your veterinarian immediately! This is a true emergency. The belly will appear rounded and full and be rather hard and tight when you touch it. First aid for bloat is not a good idea... this situation requires trained medical attention. |
| Broken toenail: |
| Just about anyone who tries to clip their own dog's toenails will sometime clip too short and create what may seem like severe bleeding. To perform first aid on a fractured or broken nail try to determine if the nail is fractured such that a loose piece can simply be trimmed away with a nail clipper. If a fractured end or a nail fragment is attached merely by a small strand, cut the loose piece away. If the nail is fractured but still well attached, a little super glue may stabilize it until your veterinarian can check it for actual trimming and coagulation of the quick. To stop bleeding from a nail that is trimmed too close to the quick or broken away from the quick, you can pack the end of the nail with bar soap, styptic powder, cornstarch or flour, or tea leaves from a tea bag. Pack the coagulant up against the bleeding quick and hold it there for a minute or two but be careful the dog will allow this. Occasionally a nail that breaks off very close to the nail bed may create an infection in the toe that twill require a veterinary clinic visit and antibiotic treatment so watch for any limping that persists longer than two days. |
| Burns: |
| Flush the injury immediately by running cool water over the burned area if possible. An ice pack (crushed ice and water mix) held within a soft towel and held gently against the affected area can decrease the inflammatory reaction to the burn injury. Seek veterinary attention immediately. Some burns can actually damage blood supply to the skin and several days later the skin will turn a dark, dry color. These damaged areas can become infected and may require surgery to repair devitalized tissue. |
| Choking: |
| If possible try to open the pet's mouth to inspect for food, toys or other objects caught in the back of the throat but be cautious about the potential for being bitten. Sometimes a "choking" sound can actually be a normal or vigorous "clearing of the throat" to remove accumulated mucous or phlegm. Tonsillitis, a "sore throat" or an irritated throat from the dog swallowing irritants can trigger what seems like choking. In true choking, the animal will be in severe distress, salivate, paw at the mouth and have difficulty breathing. Long nosed pliers or a forceps can be helpful in grasping an object caught deep in the throat. You may also use quick but gentle chest compression in an attempt to force air from the lungs to dislodge an object. By placing your hands on opposite sides of the chest and cautiously but quickly compressing the chest to mimic a cough you may be able to expel an object lodged at the larynx. Call your veterinary attention immediately. |
| CPR: |
| If the animal is not breathing and the airway and mouth are free of objects, lay it down on its right side. Check for a heartbeat by listening to the chest where the elbow touches the ribs. If there is no heartbeat, you can start chest compressions with the flat of your hand as well. To breathe for the animal extend the neck so that there is a straight airway, close its mouth; place your mouth around its muzzle and blow air into the nose until the chest expands. Be sure to keep the neck out straight, not flexed. You should be able to see the chest expand with each breath... don't over-do forcing air into the lungs. This should be performed every 5 seconds. If chest compressions are required to stimulate heart contractions, place one hand on each side of the chest in the area of the heart about 5 to 7 ribs back from the base of the neck. Compress every second and stop occasionally to force air into the lungs. Compressions with the thumb and forefinger of one hand may be all that is needed for cardiac stimulation in very small dogs or in cats. Unfortunately, this procedure, because the patient may already be dead, is rarely successful. |
| Cuts: |
| Small and superficial cuts may heal well with simple clean water rinsing and the application three times a day with an antibiotic ointment. Any cut that after three days is moist, draining, has reddened and swollen edges should be examined by a veterinarian. Treat cuts as you would an abrasion. Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area. Most cuts that are not deep and gaping will look improved within three days so if this is NOT the case, be sure to call your veterinarian. It is OK to gently clean the edges of a cut daily with warm water to soften any crusts but don't scrub the healing cut and don't apply hydrogen peroxide because this chemical, even when diluted, can harm newly produced healing tissues. |
| Diarrhea: |
| Bt definition diarrhea is not just loose stool. Diarrhea is the frequent and repetitive passage of loose, watery stool. Your judgment regarding the health status of a pet with diarrhea is critical. Bloody diarrhea with severe straining may be an emergency, especially for cats and small breeds of dogs. Diarrhea along with vomiting can be a sign of serious intestinal obstruction that may even need surgery. Weakness, pain, vomiting, or agitation are serious signs that the pet needs medical attention... not simply a little first aid! A pet with diarrhea but few other signs of distress may sometimes be treated at home but the variables are so numerous that it is best to call your veterinarian regarding the situation. Always have a fecal sample checked just in case worms or other parasites such as Giardia are a factor. Chronic or frequent episodes of loose stool may be a sign of Inflammatory Bowel Disease which often requires veterinary attention. Because diarrhea can turn deadly very fast, it is best to avoid "first aid" remedies and call your veterinarian for advice. |
| Eye injuries: |
| Surprisingly, dogs and cats have few serious eye injuries. Nevertheless, any injury to the eye can lead to permanent scarring or blindness if penetrating or ulcerative lesions develop. If you suspect there may be a debris or irritation affecting your pet's eye, you can use any commercial saline flush to clean foreign objects from the eye and to visualize the seriousness of the situation. If your pet is squinting, hiding its eyes from the light, has a raised third eyelid or has any blood within or around the eye, it's time to see the veterinarian without delay. Most veterinarians look at any eye issues as needing priority rather than a "wait and see" approach. Even a minor scratch on the cornea from a thorn or cinder can lead to consequences that would be disastrous for the pet. Home treatment of eye injuries is not recommended without a veterinarian's inspection. |
| Fractures: |
| Broken bones in pets can range from simple being a nuisance to being actually life threatening, especially if a sharp bone fragment severs an artery. Be cautious about the pain response of any animal they displays signs of a fractured bone. If safe and not stressful for the pet, try to gently assess a traumatized area that may harbor a broken bone by looking for bruising, an abnormal contour to the surface that isn't present on the opposite side, a twist to a limb that is not normal, or discomfort when a local pressure is applied. Use a muzzle if required. If the pet is bleeding try to apply pressure to the area to stop blood flow. Apply a clean cloth or bandage material gently to bleeding areas for protection and mild pressure. If possible immobilize a fracture area and get started toward the animal hospital as soon as possible. Sometimes a stretcher improvised from a blanket or plywood board can be very helpful in transporting an animal that cannot walk. If you provide careful support to any fractured limbs trying to apply a splint may not be necessary. If an animal is in extreme pain, is in a panic, or has a paralyzing spinal injury, you should call your veterinarian for advice regarding transporting... but be prepared for these patients to require a number of assistants for your trip to the animal hospital. |
| Frostbite: |
| Remove the animal from the cold source. Run cool water over the affected areas. Do not warm up the frostbitten area quickly! The affected area should not be massaged or rubbed "to get the circulation going". Seek veterinary attention immediately. Although frostbite is not common in pets it can affect the ear tips, toes and tail. |
| Heatstroke: |
| Signs of heat stroke are severe, rapid panting, wide eyes, staggering and weakness. If suspected and you can take the animal's temperature rectally, any temperature above 106 degrees is dangerous. The longer the temperature remains at or above 106 degrees the more serious the situation; heatstroke can be fatal in minutes! Place your pet in a tub of cool running water or spray with a hose being sure the cool water contacts the skin and doesn't simply run off the coat. Thoroughly wet the belly and inside the legs. Take a rectal temperature if possible to know when to stop cooling. A safe temperature is about 103 degrees. Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. Pets left in cars are at a severe disadvantage when it comes to being able to dissipate heat from their bodies. Even in the shade, and especially in humid conditions, dogs need to inhale air cooler than their normal body temperature of 102 degrees. In fact, even 80 degree air temperatures can be dangerous if the humidity is high. Always be careful about leaving pets in cars during warm days... even a few minutes can be critical. |
| Hot Spots: |
| Also called Moist Eczema these suddenly appearing, wet, circular patches of infection on the skin create intense itching and irritation. A result of a tick or insect bite, or even from a mild abrasion or moisture contacting the skin, Hot Spots can spread very rapidly across the skin surface and beneath the fur so they may be difficult to see. It is best to trim the fur around the affected area to allow air to assist in drying. Daily cleaning of the Hot Spot with hydrogen peroxide or sterile saline, even every two hours for the first day or two, will speed up the healing. Also, any topical anti-bacterial ointment such as Bacitracin, will arrest the growth of the bacteria. These skin lesions can take a week to finally dry and look like they are going to heal. Once they are no longer oozing, simply keeping the Hot Spot area clean will be all that's needed. The fur begins to grow back within two weeks. |
| Insect bites: |
| Sometimes many small bumps arise in the skin after being stung or bitten by a single insect. You can call your veterinarian about advice for an over-the-counter antihistamine to reduce the allergic response. Cortisone cream can be applied to any insect bite area to help provide relief. Cold compresses applied over bee stings alleviate swelling and pain. Be sure to call your veterinarian regarding home treatment first aid... or if your pet is in serious discomfort or displays breathing issues. A life-threatening reaction to an insect sting is very rare in animals but it can happen. |
| Poisoning: |
| Record what and how much your pet ingested or contacted. Call your veterinarian immediately. Do not induce vomiting without talking to your veterinarian first! It is always helpful to bring the wrapper or container of a suspected poison with you to the veterinarian. If vomiting is indicated hydrogen peroxide or salt placed on the back of the tongue often will induce vomiting in dogs and cats. How much do you give? A ten pound dog or cat might get half a teaspoonful of hydrogen peroxide placed (not forced to swallow) in the back of the mouth. A 100 pound dog may get two tablespoonfuls of hydrogen peroxide place in the mouth. Syrup of ipecac is a common emetic but may be difficult to acquire so check with your veterinarian about using this product. With any suspected poisoning whether ingested or by contact or inhalation, seek veterinary attention immediately. |
| Punctures: |
| Innocent though they may seem, puncture wounds need to be treated with caution. Just like a bite wound discussed above, puncture wounds may be the "tip of the iceberg" and not readily show the true seriousness of the underlying damage. Flush and apply a topical antibiotic, and if you know that the wound is not highly traumatic, you may simply keep a close eye on the area and seek veterinary help if swelling and inflammation occur. |
| Lacerations: |
| Deep cuts or very long cuts can be cleaned gently with cool water and a topical antibiotic can be applied before bandaging snugly. Then off you go to the veterinarian's office for assessment and suturing. Avoid giving "pain killers" such as aspirin or ibuprofen before you get to talk to the doctor. |
| Seizures: |
| Keep the animal safe by removing it from stairways or dangerous objects. Use of a blanket for padding and protection usually is not required unless the animal is very actively pacing or thrashing. Swallowing the tongue is not often an issue with an animal in the midst of a seizure so don't think that you must "pull the tongue out" to prevent swallowing. Convulsions/seizures are very troubling to witness and you should let your veterinarian know about any seizures your pet has. Call the veterinarian about how to handle the immediate situation and time the seizure and make note of the severity. If the seizure lasts for more than 3 minutes, or there are clusters of 5 or more, your pet may require medication right away. There really is nothing you can do to stop the seizure other than to provide a quiet environment but do speak softly to the dog for reassurance. Any dog or cat that experiences a seizure should be examined and blood chemistry studies should be done. |
| Urinary tract blockage: |
| Straining and crying while posturing to urinate without the production of urine constitutes an emergency. Call your veterinarian immediately. Without appropriate treatment, your pet can die. Urinary tract problems so not lend themselves well to first aid therapy nor herbal remedies. If you believe your dog or cat is unable to urinate, do not delay... seek veterinary attention immediately. |
| Vomiting: |
| Any pet that eats grass will probably vomit the grass and stomach contents... this is generally of no consequence. Grass has no food or medicinal value whatsoever to a dog or cat and can cause gastrointestinal tract irritation and bleeding. First aid remedies for "vomiting" can be helpful or can be your pet's worst enemy depending upon the cause of the vomiting. Using Kaopectate, Pepto Bismol herbal remedies for vomiting due to a foreign object penetration of the stomach or intestine can be disastrous! Your judgment regarding the seriousness of the vomiting is critical. If the vomit contains any blood at all, call the veterinarian immediately. If your pet seems alert, active and seems unconcerned about the vomiting, then you may try cautious observation at home. Withhold food for 12-24 hours and allow water in small amounts. Keep in mind that many small breeds of dogs can suffer severe consequences from hypoglycemia if food is unavailable for longer than 18 to 24 hours. After the vomiting has ceased for 4 hours, you may give ice chips or small amounts of water for 12 hours. If vomiting has not resumed, slowly increase the amount of water and food again over the next 24 hours. If the animal is not interested in food, vomits repeatedly, or seems cramped or in pain, it's definitely time to call the veterinarian. |
| Dog First Aid Kit |
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| The following is a list of items every dog owner should have in their first aid kit. |
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- Leash
- Thermometer
- KY Jelly
- Alcohol and Betadine
- Eye rinsing solution
- 4x4 gauze pads
- Rolls of gauze or cotton
- Vet wrap
- Bandaging tape
- Bandage scissors
- Tweezers
- Triple antibiotic ointment
- Moleskin
- Superglue
- Syringe to flush out wounds
- Band-aids (for humans)
- Hydrogen Peroxide: 1- 2 tablespoons every 15 minutes to induce vomiting
- Aspirin: only give if not on steroids or other pain meds - do not use long term!! Baby aspirin (81 mg) for small dogs, 325 mg (reg strength) for med and lg dogs - not more than every 12 hours
- Benadryl: 2 mg/kg for allergic reactions (2 - 25 mg for a 50 lb dog)
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| Crate Training |
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| Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. |
| Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate |
| Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him. |
| To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. |
| Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate |
| After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate. |
| Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it. |
| Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods |
| After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. |
| Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks. |
| Step 4- Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone |
| After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. |
| Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone. |
| Step 4- Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night |
| Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. |
| Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog, even sleep time, is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. |
| Potential Problems |
| Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
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| Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help. |
| Seperation Anxiety |
| (source: The Humane Society of the United States) |
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| Everyone needs a little time alone now and then, unless of course you are a dog who suffers from separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when they're left alone. Typically, they'll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time (20 to 45 minutes) after their owners leave them. The most common of these behaviors are: |
- Digging, chewing, and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners.
- Howling, barking, and crying in an attempt to get their owner to return.
- Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs) as a result of distress.
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| Why Do Dogs Suffer from Separation Anxiety? |
| It is not fully understood why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don't. It's important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are not the dog's attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are actually part of a panic response. |
| Separation anxiety sometimes occurs: |
- When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.
- Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together.
- After a traumatic event (from the dog's point of view), such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
- After a change in the family's routine or structure (such as a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home).
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| How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety? |
| Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it's essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem: |
- The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he's left alone.
- He follows you from room to room whenever you're home.
- He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
- The behavior always occurs when he's left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
- He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
- He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
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| What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety |
| For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section. |
- Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's important!
- Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old t-shirt that you've slept in recently.
- Establish a "safety cue", a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.
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| Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices. |
| Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety |
| The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure: |
- Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
- Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
- Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
- Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
- Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I'll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you're gone.
- Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
- Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
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| Interim Solutions |
| Because the treatments described above can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or your home in the interim, consider these suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term: |
- Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you're gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
- Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
- Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor.
- Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.
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| What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem |
- Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
- Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
- Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
- Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
- Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.
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DISCLAIMER
The information provided on this site is for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace veterinary care.
The Sheboygan Dog Training Club, LLC is not responsible for injuries or damages caused by misuse of this information.
As always, consult your veterinarian if you have an emergency.
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